Sunday, May 30, 2010

Erwin, Tennessee (11-5-10)


Hello Everyone;

Snow.  Yesterday.  Snow.  Today.  Snow.   Tomorrow.  Predicted anyway.  I camped on top of Roan Mountain.  It rained all night and turned to snow by the morning.  That meant my tent was wet.  But it was beautiful.  I was thinking that mom saw crossbills up there and looked up to see if there were any cones available.  NOne.  I don't think they'll have any crossbills this year. 

With my tent all wet I had to stop early at the shelters.  That was only a 16 mile day then.  But the shelter was full.  Lucky, Charm, Picker, Grinner, Scout, Boo and Me.  Cozy?  Cold!  It was snowing all morning.  But hiking warmed me up. Climbed Unaka Mt.  It was lovely with the snow shining against the leaves and in the Red Pines.  I Climbed over Beauty Spot.  Again, snow covered the meadow, grasses and trail.  Sometimes the trail was hard to see for the snow cover.  Eventually, the sun came out and warmed everything up.  It got a little birdy.  Grinner flushed an American Woodcock!  A state bird.  I really didn't know if it was for Tennessee or North Carolina because the trail goes back and forth between states.
Uncle Johnny's Hostel-Image found at:
http://whiteblaze.net/forum/vbg/files/2/0/2/4/4/0525b_uncle_johnny_s_hostel02.jpg

I am in Erwin, Tennessee at Uncle Johnny's Hostel. 
There are many SOBOs here resting
and taking a break from the cold weather.

More Later,
Birdy/Mom 


Wednesday, May 26, 2010

The Love Tail: Appalachian Trail Volunteers

One of the coolest things I learned on my hike was how amazing the volunteer network is along the trail from Maine to Georgia. There are people who hold the Appalachian Trail near and dear to their heart, some of whom devote financial resources and precious time to care for the trail. These people, along with hikers, and Appalachian Trail staff have an amazing energy and create such good will, that the trail atmosphere permeates with love.  Not unlike a family or community.  I began to refer to the AT as the, "LOVE TRAIL."

My first encounter with a trail volunteer occurred in the 100 mile Wilderness Section.  It was a bad day for Black Flies and although the weather was hot, I was forced to wear a bug hat to keep the flies out of my eyes.  As I was was nearing the shoreline of  Jo-Mary Lake  a man came bounding up the trail.  He was shouting and muttering under his breath.  I asked him if he was okay and he swore that he was going to take my bug hat away.  I thought the flies had driven him mad!

I made my way to the Antlers Campsite.  The  Antlers Campsite is a beautiful campground along Jo-Mary Lake.  The sites are spread out and the ground soft because of the pine tree forest.  The privy was a two seater and brand new.  No smell what so ever.   I found a tent site and pitched my tent in a spot that overlooked the lake.  I hung my food and settled in for the night.  There was a campsite next to mine, and it wasn't long before the camper returned.  It was the man I had met earlier that afternoon on the trail!

He apologized and mentioned that his agony was due to the fact that his wife wanted a divorce.  He loved her.  Together they had maintained the boundary for that section of the trail.  He couldn't imagine life without her.  I listened to his story.  I also learned that their volunteer job was to bushwhack the boundary of the trail and look for any potential problems that needed attention.   The reason the job of the boundary walker is so important is that the edges of the trail corridor come in contact with public and private land.  Keeping the trail and boundary well maintained shows integrity and creates good will along the "trail"  neighborhood.   Boundary Walkers check the edge of the corridor and write reports that are sent to the regional trail office.  Any encroachment onto the AT corridor is reported.  The edges are inspected for invasive species, fallen debris or any other unusual change.

The Appalachian Trail runs through a wilderness corridor.  Sometimes the corridor is wide, and passes through national park land or preserves.  Sometimes the corridor is narrow, barely extending the width of the trail itself.  This most often happens when the trail passes between private land holdings or along an easement. 

Later on my hike, when I arrived in Boiling Springs at the ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional Office, I met Allyson who was loading up her car with brush cutters and saws. She is a paid staff member who took volunteer crews into the backcountry to clear brush from the boundary line.  She explained that the goal was not to create a path but rather a sight line, along the boundary.  I met Allyson again at Harper's Ferry at the Conservancy.  I love your work Allyson!

 I met a retired man outside of Norwich, Vt.  He was carrying a can of white paint and a stencil.  Spending the day making sure his section was blazed properly.  Thank you!  Later, in Tennessee, I met Bob People's, Mountain Squid and Speaker, among others maintaining a section of the trail.  Bob invited me to paint a White Blaze and Mt. Squid took this picture. 


I met a crew of trail volunteers in Connecticut.  They had spent several weekends moving boulders in the stream to make a ford into a rock hop.  The boulders were huge and they were using a wench and iron poles to inch each boulder into place, one at a time.

I ran into a husband-wife duo in the Smoky Mountains.  They were loaded down with heavy equipment: shovel, ax, brush cutter & band saw, to work on their section.  They were coming in after a storm, and there was plenty of fallen debris for them to clear.  This was their weekend passion.  Hard labor, and the outdoors!  Thank you!

In New York I met a volunteer who maintains the Wiley Shelter.  He was on his way out with a huge bag of garbage.  He volunteered to keep the shelter clean and in good repair.  He toted in jugs of water for hikers during drought.  Water was scarce and much appreciated.  Gratitude!

Also, in New York several hiking clubs left water for hikers at road crossings.  One group, the Tuxedo Club, left several gallons of fresh water.  I was very lucky to get water at that section.  Very lucky!

In North Carolina I met a couple who resided and  maintained a section of the trail near Hot Springs.  They offer the most amazing trail magic out of their home.  Throughout the season they invite hikers from the trail to come for a sit down warm meal.  They served me hot from the iron, Waffles with butter and syrup.  There was hot coffee, pork stew, and for dessert; a Banana Split with whipped cream and a cherry on top!  Such kindness  shown to a tired and weary hiker.  This couple also clears debris, paints the white blazes and maintains a section of the AT for the North Carolina Mountain Club.

The trail family includes many people who perform random acts of kindness for hikers.  There are the folks who pick up hikers as they hitch to town or from town to trail.  There are folks who invite hikers into their home for a meal, shower and comfortable bed.  People leave fresh food, water and supplies along the trail or in a shelter.  Once Lucky, Charm and I were grocery shopping in town and a woman offered to shuttle us back to the trail whenever we were finished with our resupply.  I was graciously invited home in Vermont, and twice in Pennsylvania.  Once I was invited across Pierce Pond, for a relaxing evening with a very wonderful family.  We sat in the sun on their dock watching the children practice water skiing.  I was served an amazing dinner of pasta, bread, salad, and wine.  They picked me up from Pierce Pond Campsite in the afternoon and took me back at dusk in a boat!

I FEEL SUCH GRATITUDE AND LOVE FOR MY AT TRAIL FAMILY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Hot Springs

After leaving Erwin the weather turned extreme!  Snow and freezing temperatures.  We recorded 19 degrees on Saturday morning on top of Big Bald.  The weather has slowed me down a bit, but I made it into Hot Springs yesterday morning.  I waited until 1 pm for the post office to open.  Mom sent me a food package to include trail mix, natural peanut butter, and dried fruit.  After eating a pint of Ben and Jerry's and picking up my box, I found a nice man to take me all the way to Julie and Carl's  (Mountain Harvest Organic ) for 10 dollars....also the farmers here gave him a cabbage and tomatoes.  So the cost of the ride was 10 dollars, and an arm full of organic vegetables.

Julie, Carl, and Tractor

The farm looks stunning in fall colors.  THe remay has kept the plants warm through this cold snap,.  The wood stove has kept the green houses warm.  Carl gets up in the middle of the night to add wood. The goats are healthy and living in the barn so they don't escape.  There are many new chickens.....not ready to lay yet....but I dumped a load of greens in their coop and they dove right in to feast.  They have a cute little dog named HARMON that was sitting in the passager seat when I arrived.  REminded me of how Leif would sit in the drivers seat waiting to drive the truck to the next spot.....this was when he was 8 or 9, before [city] kids are allowed. 
The farmers and Sabrina (intern) were prepaing for todays market: weighing, & packing the food harvested earlier that morning.  I helped (a tiny bit) and enjoyed, so much conversing and reconnecting!  I kept sampling the "culls."  Everything was so fresh and delicious.  Beautiful leaves of spinach with droplets of water skimming across the ruffled green surface.  Sweet, sassy radishes. Cherry tomatoes fresh from the vine....some with splits were culled but I ate them.   Later, that night Julie and Carl prepared a fresh salad with the bouty of Mountain Harvest.  And Carl made pasta lasagna with chard.  It was incredibly delicious! 
I opened the box I had picked up in Hot Springs.  I  read the edits my mom made to the article.  She improved it one hundred fold.  THank You.  I'll add in the part she suggested...why I wanted to hike the AT??? and send it on to the ATC.  I can't thank her enough.  I had planned to write an alternate, short version but had no time or energy. I have been in survival mode with this cold weather!  Just wanting to keep warm.  Thank  you for the wonderful food.  I just put the inserts into my boots.  I am glad for them because the others were worn out and I threw them out back in Damascus.
My cell phone has not been getting good reception in  NC.  Also, the SPOT has been taking a very long time to transmitt.  After Erwin I stayed at Big Bald shelter.  Then Flint Mountain Shelter.  Then Spring Mt Shelter.   Finally, Hot Springs.  I don't think my electronics work well in the cold weather. 
On Big Bald the snow and cold snap made me feel cautious about sleeping away from the shelter.  Picker, Grinner, Deep Dish and I slept near one another for warmth.  When I awoke there was frozen condensation all over my sleeping bag. The hose to my platypus water sack had burst.   My water filter was frozen and not working.  My boots were frozen and I couldn't get my feet to slide in them until I sat on them for awhile to warm them up.  Then they were very hard and by the end of the day I had new blisters.  Big Bald was extremely beautiful on Sunday morning.  The sun was shining on the snow and from the distant mountains.  The mountains look purple in the winter and will reflected sun light.  There is an indian word for this effect which I will tell you about later.The snow was crisp due to the cold temps and feathery from the wind.  Big Bald is over 4000 ft.  maybe more so all morning we were hiking in snow.  When we came off the moutain, into the valley it was much warmer and drier.
All of us camped at Flint Mt.  Shelter the following night.  Deep Dish gave me a lesson in fire building.  It turns out that I can't build a fire unless I have a quart of lighter fluid.  He showed me how to find a flat rock to build the fire on to keep the snow from dampening it.  He showed me how to collect 3 types of wood:  kindling, medium sized sticks and large logs.  First:  use the tender to get a coal bed started.  Add medium sized sticks to enhance the blaze.  Surround the fire with wet wood so it can dry a bit.  I learned that you can pull down dead wood from the upper branches of trees by throwing your bear line.  Deep Dish had a roaring fire going for all of us and we were so grateful to warm up and dry our boots & socks.
After Flint Shelter we climbed up Big Butt and over the Blackstack Cliffs.  There was a foot of drifft snow to hike through at times but it was mostly 4-5 inches of snow.  Picker and Grinner left camp first and I was so appreciative that they blazed the way.  Following the trail in the snow was tricky and sometimes you can barely tell which way to go.  There were very few white blazes too.  It would have been helpful to have a map and compass.   I ended up following Picker and Grinners tracks all morning.  When the afternoon arrived the snow became slushy and was it grew more difficult to hike through.  Big balls of snow collected on the ends of my trekking poles and under my boots.  It was one step forward and a little slid back for hours.  One thing about cool about the snow;  the animal tracks were super visible.   I saw many bear tracks, including young bears going every which way.  Turkey, Coyote, and perhaps Bob Cat.  I need to look that one up.
As I began to cross the road later that day   [only 4 more miles to camp and it was 3 PM , a 21 mile day too. there was a sign indicating trail magic for November 8 and 9, 9 am to 5 pm.  The sign said to walk up the road to a concrete driveway, and knock at the house door.  You would be served hot waffles, stew, coffe, tea, or juice and you would have a banana split or brownie sundae for desert.  I checked the cell phone.  It was November 8 and it was only 3 Pm.  TOo good to be true!  I went for it.
I arrived at the house and I knew it was the correct location because one of the cars in the driveway had a personalize license plate:  Thruhiker.  A couple. former thru-hikers, welcomed me into their home.  I washed up in their bathroom and sat at their dining room table.  They set me a place with silver ware and a cloth napkin.  Fal, (the woman's trai name} heated the waffle iron and prepared a belgian waffle.  She served it with butter and thick maple syrup.  Then I was served a wonderful hot and spicy ham stew with lots of veggies.  After that I was served a huge banana spit and coffee.  By then Deep Dish had arrived.  I was happy to see him because he was not feeling well.  After Deep Dish arrived the couple gave us a brain teaser.  I am terrible at those and was so glad that Deep Dish was there to help solve the riddle.  More on that later.
After my trail magic I hiked into the sunset.  The mountains were glowing with orange, purple and red.  The moon was a golden sliver in the deep blue sky.  It grew very dark so I turned on my head lamp and eventually found my way into camp.  There were 5 section hikers there when I arrived.  They had a blazing fire going.  I found a tent spot near Picker and Grinner and got myself ready for bed.  The following day I hiked into Hot Springs.  It has warmed up and the next few daYS are predicted to be unseasonable mild.  Carl is going to slack pack me today from Hot Springs to Max Patch.  Also, he is fixing me a huge breakfast; omelet and oatmeal, coffee and everything is HOT!
I have a lot more to tell you about but it will have to wait.  I must get ready to head out.  20 miles today....but it will be slackpacking....the weather looks good...Bluff Mountain here I come!!!

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Hiawassee, Georgia (11-10)

Hello Everyone,
I am in Hiawassee, Georgia  and coming close to the finish line!  I made it through the Smoky Mts, passed  Fontana Dam and this morning, crossed the NC/GA state line.  The Smoky Mtns were beautiful, as was the weather.  Thanks to Julie and Carl, for insisting that I go while the weather was good. I wanted to spend a few days helping around the farm but after reading the weather forecast they encouraged me to trek on. In the Smokies first few days were warm and sunny.  Along the trail were piles of melting snow and in places of higher elevation the trail was iced over, evidence of the big snow storm that blanketed the mountains a week earlier, when I was hiking from Big Top.  My last day in the Smoky Mountains and to Fontana dam it began to rain, but because of the change in weather the mountains had the classic smoky look. In the Smoky Mtns you are not allowed to tent anywhere but must stay in the shelters.  If the shelters are full (and they usually are on the weekends) you are allowed to camp outside the shelter.  On  the first night I slept at Davenport Gap.  I remember visiting this shelter when I was a little girl with my dad, Julie and Janice.  It has a chain linked fence across the front to keep the bears out.  When everyone is in at night it gets locked.   My mom dropped us off and we hiked from there to Cosby one year.  The next night I camped at Pecks Corner.  This was the beginning of the weekend and there were section hikers from all over, including Rockford, IL.  The shelter was pretty crowded.  I hiked out at 5:30 AM  in the dark.
The following day I climbed over Clingmans Dome.  The elevation is 6,643.  This is the highest point along the Appalachian Trail.  For the southbounder it is a fairly easy climb without the elevation gain of mountains say, like Katahdin.  There were lots of weekend visitors noticing my big pack and wondering if I was a "thru-hiker."  I usually take time to answer questions because often it is  the children who are curious. Sometimes I am given "trail magic," and a couple of teachers from Tennessee gave me two Power Bars which I was most appreciative because I was running low on food.  Clingman's Dome was stunning with clear views in all directions.  I had a group of people clap for Picker, Grinner, Lucky and Charm who came in about 3o minutes after me.  pEOPLE were really excited to hear their thru-hike stories.   THat night I stayed at the Double Spring Shelter and it was a full house.  Three hikers volunteered to tent outside.
There was a little boy there who built a pretend fire.  Because there were so many people eating dinner at the bench and table I announced that I was eating near his fire.  This excited him so I offered to show him and his dad how to build a fire.  I had a lesson from Deep Dish a few nights back and wanted to practice.  We gathered kindling,medium sized sticks and large pieces of wood..  His dad had a cotton ball dipped in petroleum jelly.  It was highly flammable.  We started a small fire with the kindling, and with patience, got ourselves a nice hot coal bed.  Then we graduated to the medium sized wood and finally few logs.  Our fire was roaring hot.....until everyone started to add logs, wet and dry, all sizes too.  There was an eagle scout there who took over.  He took off some logs and blew, very hard, several times to bring the fire back.  I learned something new.  It is so nice to see folks sitting around and enjoying a fire Birdy built.  Just like a pretend fire.
THe following day I passed the 2000 mile mark of my journey.  Lucky, Charm, Picker, Grinner, and I met up at the Russell Field Shelter, where there is a log for SOBOs to enter their favorite times or their worst times.  Lucky read through some of the entries made by other hikers who had previously stopped to mark the occasion.  Worst State; Pennsylvania (I disagree),  Best State; Vermont (i agree).  Most Popular Trail Food; Pop Tarts (true, but I've not had a single one),  etc.  Lucky and Picker made some entries but the rest of us hiked on.  It was beginning to rain.
I hiked out of the Smoky Mountains in the rain to Fontana Dam.  THe Tennessee RIver is dammed up to create Fontana Lake.  THey have a visitors center which for SoBos is closed but they also have year round showers, damn hot too, for hikers.  A van, two couples on vacation at the FOntana Dam resort, picked me up and happily took me to the grocery store near their resort.  THE GROCERY STORE Was CLOSED and I was desperate for supplies!  The driver of the van, John, pulled over a maintenance truck to ask about a store and he was able to get the store opened.  My new friends waited for me to buy new food.  THe wives went back to their lodge room and came back with a homemade lunch for everyone, including me. 
It began to rain.  They drove me back to the AT at Fontana Dam.  There is a spectacular shelter there known as the "Fontana Dam Hilton."  It sleeps up to 24 hikers.  I entertained my friends by telling them how the shelter works.  How hikers sleep.  The hangers to keep food or packs from the mice.  The register where hikers make notes to one another or journal personal experience.  Then the wives served up turkey sandwiches on homemade wheat bread, homemade granola bars, ice cream, carrot sticks and ORANGES!  Seldom do hikers carry fresh oranges so it was a super treat.  I forgot to bring spoons for the ice cream so we ate it with carrot sticks.
My new friends were going to hike a few miles on the AT with me but changed their minds when the rain changed from drizzle to downpour.  They soon left me and I returned to the Dam to wait for Deep DIsh.  I heard from Picker that Deep Dish found my medical bag and (I hoped) my bear line.  I left those items at Peck Corner Shelter.  I had hiked out in the dark and missed those two items while packing up. 
I found TIny TIm.  He said that Deep DIsh and his dad were aways yet.  I waited about 4 hours and eventually saw Deep and his dad coming in.  His dad was freezing because they had been hiking in cold rain all day.  I found out that he had carried out my medicine bag but not the bear rope.  He knew the medicine bag was mine because it had this orange band inside.  The bear rope didn't have any recognizable mark, so he wasn't sure it belonged to me.  It may still be there, although it was a good rope and Madeline helped me pick out the caribener. I will miss it.

We went out for dinner at the lodge.  Deep Dish and his dad were going to stay there a night and invited me to share their room.  Because they were going to stay up watching football and because I wanted to get back on the trail early, I chose to head back to Fontana Dam, to stay in the shelter.  As I was leaving my 4 friends found me.  I introduced them to Deep Dish and his dad.  They heard a few good stories before driving me, in the pouring rain, down to the dam where the shelter is.  I had a good nights sleep there and headed out the following day.  It was still raining.

THe next day I hiked 20 miles through the lovely Nantahala FOrest.  There are some lovely mountains to hike over, several have BALDS, where there are shrubby plants, fields of grasses or both at the summits. THe day was rain and high winds.  I heard a tree crashing down near me.  As it went down it fell across the nearby tees causing them to sway like crazy. There was a powerful smell of earth as it was uprooted.  All day the winds would bring in a period of driving rain, followed by a calm period of mist.  By afternoon the calm period would have a tad of sunshine.  Once there were high winds, followed by thunderstorms, followed by sunshine, followed by freezing rain.  It was strange weather but when I summitted Cheola bald there was sunshine and a vista of North Carolina to be seen.  I could see the dark clouds of a storm approaching so I quickly found the white blaze to make my descent.  By the time I reached Sassafrass Gap Shelter it was sleeting.  I was very cold.  When I got to camp my hands were frozen and I could not unzip my zippers.  I had to put my hands under my arm pits and run in place to warm them before I could remove my wet clothes and put on wool long underwear,  I shivered for a long time that night.

I hiked through the Nantahala FOrest to the Georgia/North Carolina border over the following days.  Before the state line, when I arrived at Sassafrass Gap, there was a bear dog, with a radio collar.  She was skin and bones!  I noticed that she followed me.  I told her if she was still with me at the state line, I'd make us a tortilla, cheese and peanut butter sandwich.  She was, and I did.  After she gobbled up her food she looked longinly at mine, so I told her if she was still with me at Hiawassee I'd give her the rest of the peanut butter.  She followed me a long ways, until we ran into another backpacker who was heading north.  This woman was out for a weekend hike and loaded down with too much heavy gear.  I told her about "my" dog and asked her if she had any food.  She pulled out a black bean burrito, which the bear dog instantly gobbled up.  THat was how I lost my dog.  THe dog followed the food.  I couldn't blame her either.

When I made it to Deep Gap,  I noticed the ROAD Trek.  Mom and dad were there waiting.  They heard from other hikers that I was on my way out.  Dad shuttled 2 hikers into town.  We love and appreciate that kind of trail magic.  After some hugging we stowed my smelly pack into the back of the road trek we headed to the Hiawassee Inn, a grungy little motel with backed up sinks.
Over the next few days mom and dad slacked packed me.  First from Deep Gap to Unicoi Gap.  Next from Unicoi to Neels Gap.  Neels Gap to High Tower Gap.  High Tower to Springer Mountain and the Finale!
For the last two days Granny found a lovely cabin at Neels Gap.  It is near Blood Mountain, thus named Blood Mountain Cabins.  Each cabin is named for an animal and ours was;  Raccoon.  It had 4 taxidermy raccoons around the fireplace.  If you remember Granny's encounter with the raccoon last year you might wonder if it was traumatic.  Granny was not phased.  She even laughed.  Wish you all were there!!!!!!!!!
Love,
Mom
[birdy]


Saturday, May 15, 2010

Reaching the Southern Terminus; Amicalola Falls, Georgia

Amicalola Falls, I found this on the web:http://www.jjanthony.com/waterfalls/falls/amicalola.html
This is the stair case I climbed down at the end of my hike.  Many hikers choose to skip this part because it is hard on the knees!



By the time I finished business at the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser North Carolina it was already late afternoon.  I wanted to make up the miles and decided to aim for Cold Spring Shelter, which was about 16 miles south.  I knew that I would be hiking into the shelter at night and decided to enjoy the sunset from Wesser Bald Observation Tower.  It was stunning.  Clear, cool and lovely.  Pinks, blue, orange and crimson colors expand and then contract as the night sky cloaks all, in order to present the evening stars.  As I hiked the night grew darker until I was forced to turn my head lamp on.  When I did the mica glimmered from the trail as I hiked along.  The path was lit up like a runway.  I came to an opening on top a rise.  I was able to see the shimmering night lights of a little town below.  Above me the night sky was lit up with stars.  I had come to LOVE night hiking!

I reached Cold Spring Shelter, which is an old shelter, low to the ground and not exactly level.  The bear cables were broken but I used the cross wire to hang my food.  It is always a bit of a challenge at night.  The spring was good and conveniently located near the shelter.  I noticed a hand made sign inviting hikers for some "Trail Magic," 1 mile south, at Burningtown Gap.  Sleep in a warm (wood stove) 6 man tent, complimentary food and a trip to town each day at 5 PM.  A warm tent on a cold night sounded quite inviting but I was afraid to take the risk.  If I walked to the gap it would be 9 pm and I'd disturb any sleepers...or worse it could be that the Trail Magic was over.....it was tempting but I decided to stay put.

I set out early the next day and sure enough, at Burningtown Gap there was a tent.  I was invited in for some coffee and snacks.  The tent was manned by "Appleseed,"  who had been coming to Burningtown Gap for a number of years, to aid and assist hikers.  His tent was stocked with things hikers need;  food, medical supplies, and kindness.  What a generous heart this man has to come year after year!  He sets up camp, chops wood for the stove, offers food, among other things.  I learned that he was expecting me because Lucky, Charm, Picker and Grinner had been there the day before.  There was a film maker there taping our conversation.  He was making a documentary feature.  His web address is:

I was nearing the end of my journey and with each step I felt closer to my goal.  I felt such gratitude to the people who helped me all along the trail, and to my parents at home.  I thanked my feet, my body for getting me there.  I thanked the White Blazes for guiding me.  I felt gratitude for all the volunteers along the trail who dedicate their spare time to maintaining and improving the path.  I was filled with reflection and contemplation of the lessons learned on my journey. 

My mom had been trying to make arrangements for my kids to come for a celebration at the end of my trail.  They wanted to come but because there was no way of predicting when I would finish and because they were busy with college course work, it was impossible.  My mom and dad were coming though!  I had been trying to make phone contact with them but cell phone coverage was spotty.  I wasn't able to call them from the Outdoor Center either.  I tried the phone from atop Wesser Bald with no luck.

The next day I stopped at Rock Gap Shelter.   The camp was messy with scraps of food and food wrappers littered about.  I made camp and cleaned up the site.  I passed a bear proof garbage can just a little north of the shelter, near a dirt forest service road.  It is always nice to unload your trash whenever possible so I took advantage of the opportunity and walked back with the refuse I had collected at the camp.

 I was the only hiker there and a rat kept me company all night long with its incessant scratching, in the roof above me.   Several times I awoke to check my gear, to make sure it wasn't gnawing on anything in my pack.  The next morning as I prepared to break camp I made a lot of noise.  I shouted and sang songs to make sure I paid the rat back for my lack of sleep.  But really I appreciated being awaken through the night because I was able to hear the call of Barred Owls.

The next day I hiked through Mooney Gap.  In the Companion it is described as one of the wettest places in the eastern USA.  There was water seeping from the rocks and onto the trail in many places.  Interesting plant communities grew in, on and around the rock bluffs.  I looked into the vista and observed a great lake.  I climbed Albert Mountain and then Standing Indian.  It was a lovely day so I took a short blue blaze trail to the summit.  There were little campsites along the  path and I thought that it would be fun to camp up there during the warmer months.  The view was partially blocked by immense trees but I was able to see interesting rock outcropping.  I tried my cell phone and got coverage!  I was excited to learn that my mom and dad were in the area.  I was eager to join them but we could find no easy place to meet up.  It was only dirt forest roads until Hiawassee, which I would not reach until the following day.

I made my last camp in an established campsite at Wateroak Gap, North Carolina.  I pitched my tent, hung my food and ate dinner.  I searched the area for water but could find none.  Being low on water I allowed myself a few sips but no teeth brushing that night and there would be no coffee or power shake the next morning until water was found.   I slept really well dreaming of the trail.  I had a dream about snow surrounding my tent.  I dreamt about Pilot and Leif.

The following day I broke camp and headed toward the state line.  Late in the morning I arrived at Muskrat Creek Shelter where I found a nice stream flowing across the trail.  I filtered a days supply of water, made cold coffee and a protein shake.  A young hiker watched and asked me if I was "thru."  Yes!  How did he know [i asked him]?  You look like you know what you are doing!  Finally.  We chatted awhile and he asked me a lot of questions.  The kid was an Eagle Scout and had dreams of doing a thru-hike.  I am sure he will.

As I climbed from gap to gap I came across a bony, bear dog.   Bear dogs are usually skinny from all their running.  This one [a female] had a radio collar and was especially thin.   She followed me for several miles before I took pity on her and gave her food.  I made us each a peanut butter, cheese and flour tortilla sandwich.  She gobbled it up and asked for mine.  I told her that if she crossed the state line with me I'd give her another.  I was meeting my parents later that day and could afford to share my supplies.

She followed me to the state line.  Her nose touching the back of my leg from time to time.  I was trying to figure out a way to take her back to Chicago when I ran into another hiker.  She was appalled at the starving dog, and gave her a huge [mountain house?] bean burrito.  The bear dog left me for the bean burrito.  I figured she knew how to work the hikers for food.  Sometimes bear dogs come to the shelters looking for handouts.  I am not sure if the dog owners keep them hungry on purpose.  If you want to see how she is doing I found this name and number on her tag:  STEVE #828-226-9197

Please ask him how his dog is doing!

At the Georgia-North Carolina state line there are unusual looking oak trees growing.  Their trunks have become gnarled and distorted, taking on interesting animal shapes. There is a huge tree that looks like a Chinese Lion and a number of trees that look like curvaceous women with huge breasts and wide hips.   I really enjoyed that section of the trail.  There is also a wooden sign noting the border.  I noticed that a few hikers, some of whom I knew; farm-a-sea and karma had carved in their trail names.  Shame on them.  It makes me sad to see anyone deface the AT, especially a thru-hiker.

Later that day I descended into Dicks Creek Gap, where I noticed the Road Trek.  Mom and dad were waiting.  My mom usually hikes in to meet me but I had made such good time that day, was earlier than expected, so she was still in the parking lot.  The parking lot was crowded with day and weekend hikers.   My parents had heard word from other hikers that I was on my way out.  My dad had already shuttled two hikers to town.  Hikers really appreciate rides.  It is part of the TRAIL MAGIC we come to love and appreciate.  I knew two hikers he shuttled; Wolverine and Danny.  I hadn't seen either of them since Maine.  I found it amazing that they were only half a day ahead of me.

We set off to Hiawassee where my parents had reserved  room for the night at a tiny Hiawassee motel. We stopped by and dropped off my gear before heading to the Hiawassee Diner for an ALL YOU CAN EAT buffet.   I ate quite a bit.  Enough for the waitress to know I was a thru-hiker tanking up for the following day.  I was now 67.5 miles from Springer Mountain.


Friday, May 14, 2010

The End


From Hiawassee my parents slack-packed me the last 76 miles, to the end of the trail.  I was able to hike all day and relax, with a warm shower, comfortable bed, and plenty of food in the evening.  My dad would navigate the road trek through the maze of dirt forest service roads in order to drop me off or pick me up.  My mom would hike in to see me off in the morning and to meet me in the afternoon.  We would enjoy the plants and birds along the trail.  This is how I developed my passion for hiking and enjoying nature; as a child, camping with my family.  That is why I hiked the entire Appalachian Trail.  This is why I hike.