Saturday, May 15, 2010

Reaching the Southern Terminus; Amicalola Falls, Georgia

Amicalola Falls, I found this on the web:http://www.jjanthony.com/waterfalls/falls/amicalola.html
This is the stair case I climbed down at the end of my hike.  Many hikers choose to skip this part because it is hard on the knees!



By the time I finished business at the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Wesser North Carolina it was already late afternoon.  I wanted to make up the miles and decided to aim for Cold Spring Shelter, which was about 16 miles south.  I knew that I would be hiking into the shelter at night and decided to enjoy the sunset from Wesser Bald Observation Tower.  It was stunning.  Clear, cool and lovely.  Pinks, blue, orange and crimson colors expand and then contract as the night sky cloaks all, in order to present the evening stars.  As I hiked the night grew darker until I was forced to turn my head lamp on.  When I did the mica glimmered from the trail as I hiked along.  The path was lit up like a runway.  I came to an opening on top a rise.  I was able to see the shimmering night lights of a little town below.  Above me the night sky was lit up with stars.  I had come to LOVE night hiking!

I reached Cold Spring Shelter, which is an old shelter, low to the ground and not exactly level.  The bear cables were broken but I used the cross wire to hang my food.  It is always a bit of a challenge at night.  The spring was good and conveniently located near the shelter.  I noticed a hand made sign inviting hikers for some "Trail Magic," 1 mile south, at Burningtown Gap.  Sleep in a warm (wood stove) 6 man tent, complimentary food and a trip to town each day at 5 PM.  A warm tent on a cold night sounded quite inviting but I was afraid to take the risk.  If I walked to the gap it would be 9 pm and I'd disturb any sleepers...or worse it could be that the Trail Magic was over.....it was tempting but I decided to stay put.

I set out early the next day and sure enough, at Burningtown Gap there was a tent.  I was invited in for some coffee and snacks.  The tent was manned by "Appleseed,"  who had been coming to Burningtown Gap for a number of years, to aid and assist hikers.  His tent was stocked with things hikers need;  food, medical supplies, and kindness.  What a generous heart this man has to come year after year!  He sets up camp, chops wood for the stove, offers food, among other things.  I learned that he was expecting me because Lucky, Charm, Picker and Grinner had been there the day before.  There was a film maker there taping our conversation.  He was making a documentary feature.  His web address is:

I was nearing the end of my journey and with each step I felt closer to my goal.  I felt such gratitude to the people who helped me all along the trail, and to my parents at home.  I thanked my feet, my body for getting me there.  I thanked the White Blazes for guiding me.  I felt gratitude for all the volunteers along the trail who dedicate their spare time to maintaining and improving the path.  I was filled with reflection and contemplation of the lessons learned on my journey. 

My mom had been trying to make arrangements for my kids to come for a celebration at the end of my trail.  They wanted to come but because there was no way of predicting when I would finish and because they were busy with college course work, it was impossible.  My mom and dad were coming though!  I had been trying to make phone contact with them but cell phone coverage was spotty.  I wasn't able to call them from the Outdoor Center either.  I tried the phone from atop Wesser Bald with no luck.

The next day I stopped at Rock Gap Shelter.   The camp was messy with scraps of food and food wrappers littered about.  I made camp and cleaned up the site.  I passed a bear proof garbage can just a little north of the shelter, near a dirt forest service road.  It is always nice to unload your trash whenever possible so I took advantage of the opportunity and walked back with the refuse I had collected at the camp.

 I was the only hiker there and a rat kept me company all night long with its incessant scratching, in the roof above me.   Several times I awoke to check my gear, to make sure it wasn't gnawing on anything in my pack.  The next morning as I prepared to break camp I made a lot of noise.  I shouted and sang songs to make sure I paid the rat back for my lack of sleep.  But really I appreciated being awaken through the night because I was able to hear the call of Barred Owls.

The next day I hiked through Mooney Gap.  In the Companion it is described as one of the wettest places in the eastern USA.  There was water seeping from the rocks and onto the trail in many places.  Interesting plant communities grew in, on and around the rock bluffs.  I looked into the vista and observed a great lake.  I climbed Albert Mountain and then Standing Indian.  It was a lovely day so I took a short blue blaze trail to the summit.  There were little campsites along the  path and I thought that it would be fun to camp up there during the warmer months.  The view was partially blocked by immense trees but I was able to see interesting rock outcropping.  I tried my cell phone and got coverage!  I was excited to learn that my mom and dad were in the area.  I was eager to join them but we could find no easy place to meet up.  It was only dirt forest roads until Hiawassee, which I would not reach until the following day.

I made my last camp in an established campsite at Wateroak Gap, North Carolina.  I pitched my tent, hung my food and ate dinner.  I searched the area for water but could find none.  Being low on water I allowed myself a few sips but no teeth brushing that night and there would be no coffee or power shake the next morning until water was found.   I slept really well dreaming of the trail.  I had a dream about snow surrounding my tent.  I dreamt about Pilot and Leif.

The following day I broke camp and headed toward the state line.  Late in the morning I arrived at Muskrat Creek Shelter where I found a nice stream flowing across the trail.  I filtered a days supply of water, made cold coffee and a protein shake.  A young hiker watched and asked me if I was "thru."  Yes!  How did he know [i asked him]?  You look like you know what you are doing!  Finally.  We chatted awhile and he asked me a lot of questions.  The kid was an Eagle Scout and had dreams of doing a thru-hike.  I am sure he will.

As I climbed from gap to gap I came across a bony, bear dog.   Bear dogs are usually skinny from all their running.  This one [a female] had a radio collar and was especially thin.   She followed me for several miles before I took pity on her and gave her food.  I made us each a peanut butter, cheese and flour tortilla sandwich.  She gobbled it up and asked for mine.  I told her that if she crossed the state line with me I'd give her another.  I was meeting my parents later that day and could afford to share my supplies.

She followed me to the state line.  Her nose touching the back of my leg from time to time.  I was trying to figure out a way to take her back to Chicago when I ran into another hiker.  She was appalled at the starving dog, and gave her a huge [mountain house?] bean burrito.  The bear dog left me for the bean burrito.  I figured she knew how to work the hikers for food.  Sometimes bear dogs come to the shelters looking for handouts.  I am not sure if the dog owners keep them hungry on purpose.  If you want to see how she is doing I found this name and number on her tag:  STEVE #828-226-9197

Please ask him how his dog is doing!

At the Georgia-North Carolina state line there are unusual looking oak trees growing.  Their trunks have become gnarled and distorted, taking on interesting animal shapes. There is a huge tree that looks like a Chinese Lion and a number of trees that look like curvaceous women with huge breasts and wide hips.   I really enjoyed that section of the trail.  There is also a wooden sign noting the border.  I noticed that a few hikers, some of whom I knew; farm-a-sea and karma had carved in their trail names.  Shame on them.  It makes me sad to see anyone deface the AT, especially a thru-hiker.

Later that day I descended into Dicks Creek Gap, where I noticed the Road Trek.  Mom and dad were waiting.  My mom usually hikes in to meet me but I had made such good time that day, was earlier than expected, so she was still in the parking lot.  The parking lot was crowded with day and weekend hikers.   My parents had heard word from other hikers that I was on my way out.  My dad had already shuttled two hikers to town.  Hikers really appreciate rides.  It is part of the TRAIL MAGIC we come to love and appreciate.  I knew two hikers he shuttled; Wolverine and Danny.  I hadn't seen either of them since Maine.  I found it amazing that they were only half a day ahead of me.

We set off to Hiawassee where my parents had reserved  room for the night at a tiny Hiawassee motel. We stopped by and dropped off my gear before heading to the Hiawassee Diner for an ALL YOU CAN EAT buffet.   I ate quite a bit.  Enough for the waitress to know I was a thru-hiker tanking up for the following day.  I was now 67.5 miles from Springer Mountain.


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